02006nam a22001577a 4500999001900000008004100019100003200060245007600092260005200168300003600220520139300256773005201649906002901701942000701730952011101737  c524183d524183231031b           ||||| |||| 00| 0 eng d  aChoudhury, Suchitra 945606  aIndian shawls in nineteenth-century Britain: A fashionable proposition?  aThe Indian Economic and Social History Review    a60(2), Apr-Jun, 2023: p.185-206  aKashmiri shawls were valued dress accessories in nineteenth-century Britain. What came to be known as ‘Paisley’ shawls were their affordable imitations manufactured in centres in Edinburgh, Norwich and Paisley. Oriental shawls and their patterns have been examined painstakingly by textile scholars and art historians; cultural critics, however, have yet to outline their colonial and postcolonial significance. This article provides a view of how shawls from India were customised and represented in British popular discourse. Interestingly, what had been largely masculine accessories in the subcontinent at the time were reinvented in Britain and Europe as articles of feminine fashion. It is argued that the distinction between original and imitation Kashmiri shawls transpired as an important marker of class in British society. In addition, despite their easy and fashionable veneer, the representation of oriental shawls at the time sometimes recalled and referred to the ideologies of the empire. Rendering a new importance to fashion and material culture in postcolonial research, I conclude that although shawls have been studied as a chapter in fashion history, their broader relevance to relations of class and imperialism, visible so often in British cultural texts, needs to be recognised. – Reproduced 

https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/00194646231165804
  aThe Indian Economic and Social History Review    aSHAWL INDUSTRY - KASHMIR  cAR  00102ddc40709399233aIIPAbIIPAd2023-10-31h60(2), Apr-Jun, 2023: p.185-206pAR130062r2023-10-31yAR